New Tile Roof Problems

Back to Index
BLACKTOP
Sun Aug 21, 2005 10:51 pm
hi, we are glad to find your site. Your professional opinion is very much needed. Our lightweight tile roof is one year old. This new tile was custom created by a large roof company.(Bar Tile K.C.) We were the first to try it. It was not supposed to break if you walked on it, yet it was light enough not to need extra support on our 20 year old home.
This did not prove to be true.

Our English Tudor is 25% shallow pitch and 75% steep pitch. Alot of the shallow is cracked/cracking.
I witnessed the roofers walking all over the area, but they thought it would not break.

Besides cracking, the tiles sometimes do not set flat on top of each other. They form spaces beneath them. Is it a problem if snow and wind driven rain blow under this?

The roof is composed of 1 by 2 slats nailed over new generation 20 year roofing membrane.

Are all lightweight tile roofs this fragile?

The roofing company wants to completely strip the low pitch and redo it. They seem to be a little concerned about high pitched areas also, although none of them have broken.

Our concern is on snow loads and hail. Do we need to retile the high pitch areas also?

Originally we were using Cedar Lite, but thought it was not as durable as this, now we wonder if any light tile is bad choice.

The roof is absolutely beautiful. This is more beautiful than any we have seen before. We really want to keep our roof. We do not want to ask the roofers to do any more than is necessary on their part either. What direction should we take?
Master
Sun Aug 21, 2005 11:49 pm
Shane?
QRFL
Mon Aug 22, 2005 12:11 am
it sounds somewhat complicated but let me see if i can help:

1)you ask if there is a problem if snow or rain get under tile??

all tile roofs have some amount of water intrusion that is why its very important that underlayment is done properly. if underlayment is installed poorly then there may be a problem.

2)are all lightweight tiles this fragile??

yes, lightweight tiles are fragile it all depends where you stand on, and how heavy you are to determine how many you will break.(thats why i dont like tiles.)

3)our concern is snowloads and hail do we need to re-tile steep areas too???

when you did this roof since it was "experimental" you should have had an engineer report to determine any weight imapct due to bad weather and all..... you live in a diferent area and all are diferent .... this should be asked to your local city inspector.

my personal suggestion:

have it inspected by your city inspector, then if it will support the roof weight and snow loads,then get the roofing contractor to repair underlayment and fix broken tiles... get a good workmanship warranty.

i did my best..

god luck and god bless
BLACKTOP
Mon Aug 22, 2005 12:36 am
Your information is very much appreciated. You gave us some new things to think about. We plan on living in this house till death.(about 30 years) Will these tiles last that long, if we stay off of them?
QRFL
Mon Aug 22, 2005 1:08 am
normal standar or lightweight tiles are supposed to last at least 50 years!! the better question is.....

is the underlayment going to last that long??????

tiles are there to protect the underlayment only and to deflect a big portion of the rainfall off, but not all.

if you have top of the line underlayment togheter with a good tile installation having the minimum amount of water getting underneith it. youre set

i see new homes with new tiles ( one year old ) calling from roof leaks, because of improper installation or cheap underlayment .

your only hope is a good workmanship warranty and good materials, lots of ice and water shield...
Shane@RRSroofing
Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:33 am
I have never walked on lightweight tile. I am 240 lbs and even if they dont break the channels break. I would never let my guys walk on them either. I dont know about the tiles on your roof but I know that most tiles are not water proof. Your roof is your underlayment. That is why I like to use sbs hot mop system or minimum 90# hot mop. No worries. with the uv protection that tile offers you would be ok. Typically if on 2' centers must be 2"x6" rafter or truss & 5/8" or greater decking for tile. 18" centers the 1/2" decking for tile but ask an engineer for the proper diagnosis. Again as Q said the underlayment will give out if poor quality. Tile is estetics only! The principle of your roof is underlayment. Good luck any questions please feel free to call.
QRFL
Mon Aug 22, 2005 3:50 am
yea true shane, there so many tiles damaged from delivery that by the time you install them they simply crack much less walk on them.
shane do you install battens after hot mop?? or how do nail the tile??
Shane@RRSroofing
Mon Aug 22, 2005 11:27 am
The way I feel is best is first course screwed w/2 screws all the way around along with medium poly foam patty. Hip and Ridge metal to attach the trim peices. And every tile in the field attached with medium poly foam patty. That way there are no extrusions thru your "roof" except on the edge over the eave. That fist course needs screws only in high wind areas because of the overhang and the uplift. In SD the poly foam would be all you need.

http://www.polyfoam.cc/products/roof/polyset.html
Shane@RRSroofing
Mon Aug 22, 2005 11:34 am
You can use battens just use galv nails and leave a 2" space every 2' for run off. Again I dont like making holes in a roof. When I use screw down or nail method the guys put mastic on the back of each tile behind the nail hole to help seal it.

Add your comment

Name:
Comment: