Shingle Repair Needed?

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carol
Thu Aug 11, 2005 7:37 pm
Help! We built a new home in NH 5 years ago. The roof was done during a very cold December and the winter stayed cold. Now, the asphalt fiberglass shingles are curling and my husband says it is probably because it was too cold for the glue to seal originally. Can/should this be fixed now? Can I simply use a sealant to tack down the edges? All words of wisdom are appreciated.
Master
Thu Aug 11, 2005 9:10 pm
Had the shingles ever blown up or blown off? Curling is not usually due to seal strip, but more likey underventialted or a bad batch of material or outright cheap shingles.
G-Tape
Thu Aug 11, 2005 9:14 pm
Poor quality shingles---aging too fast

Poor installation----tar strip not in good contact with the next shingle

inadequate venting of the attic space--too much heat in the attic and dried out the shingles.


no amout of tar will hold them down.

The cold had nothing to do with it, as soon as the sun did come out, it would have melted the tar strip and sealed the shingles together. So it has to be one of these 3 things.

What kind of shingles were they?

did the roofers know what they were doing?

Read all of Prides posts, all he ever talks about is venting!!!!!!!!!
carol
Thu Aug 11, 2005 9:17 pm
They have never blown off. They just look bad to me because they do not lie flat. And they are a good grrade of shingles. Most of the curling is on the double layer at the very bottom of the roof, above the garage doors where there is a double layer, according to my husband.

After much nagging, my husband agreed to call the bulider about the problem 2 years ago and he worked on a small section of the roof in the back of the house but there remains the problem that all the shingles do not lie flat. In areas where they are raised, it does not look right to me. Am I being too fussy?
QRFL
Thu Aug 11, 2005 10:40 pm
double layer on the bottom???



i agree with g and Master that ventilation is normally the number one cause..

if this gets worst with time is definetly a venting problem.....
have you check your atticc for vapor/condensation damage???

like in this link:
http://www.grangevilleenvironmental.com/AtticMold.htm

do you have vents??? tubines, dormers, ridge vent???
Pride_roofing
Fri Aug 12, 2005 12:42 am
sounds to me like IKO shingles on a new construction. Is it new construction? It is a ventilation problem. Shingles are done no way of recovering from damage.
carol
Fri Aug 12, 2005 1:00 pm
Thank you all for your feedback. It is wonderful to hear from people who know what they're talking about. Yes, it is new construction and most of the shingles with curling are over the garage where there is little ventilation. We will check our attic this weekend for damage. Thanks again.
SYS
Fri Aug 12, 2005 2:56 pm
I did new construction for the last 2 years for a Union Roofing Company in my area. Let me tell you.... some of the people I worked with did it the company's way that is they would rig the roofs to screw up. They would do things they knew would cause leaks in a few years. Before I worked for this company I worked for a company that ran behind the ones above. I tore off so many brand new roofs it was pathetic. Ever seen a whole neighborhood with 2 year old roofs getting new roofs. I have, been there done that. The Union company used 20 year shingles on most jobs unless the homeowner upgraded them to architectural shingles. Really burns me up that people pay so much and get so little in return. I always did my work with pride no matter what.
The other roofer's posts are full of excelent information and help. However there are a few other possibilities for the curling shingles. Depending on how they curl please understand that we can only draw a mental picture of what you describe. ***It might be that the roof deck isn't properly nailed down, highly likely since it is new construction. I spent a whole lot of time nailing behind the carpenters whom overlooked entire sheets of wood.*** It is possible that the roofers gave to much overhang. It is also possible that a truss is not aligned properly causing the wood below to buckle up and making the shingles conform to that buckle. Another possibility there could be staples holding down your deck that may be backing out on you (this doesn't seem likely from you explanation). They may have had walk boards on the roof where the curling is and they may have had the tabs over the boards instead of under them and bundles may have been layed on top of it. It could have been from the way the shingles got stocked on the roof. It could be 16d nails not nailed all the way in and instead bent over in the deck from where Jacks may have been. It could even be from the plywood clips or crap decking they use to build those houses. If you would post a photo of the flaw in your roof it would help us all to beter help you. Good Luck finding the problem.
Pride_roofing
Sat Aug 13, 2005 11:34 am
Most new con work has an 18 month warranty. With that they dont care. The problem statrts with the builder most of the time. Pay as little as possible and as long as it makes it 12 months or 18 months who care after that. Now ifyou look close you will see the step flashing on the outside of the vertical wall. What kind of person does that, Someone who does not care or know any better.
Go to http://www.roofersreview.com/gallery2/main.php/v/Gary%20Zak/Picture%20012_002.jpg.html
This is the pic for some reason cant get it to post here.
Now on cathedral ceilings alot of roofers put ridge vent or cans up there forgeting that baffles are needed to supply the soffit air due to insulation on the back side of plywood. Delamination happens solely from underventilation, i can not count how many homes with that wonderful 3/8 ply that had to completely re-sheeted at the cost of 40 a pop. Now with the age of OSB flaking will become the problem. Aside from that Since this home is a newer one. Here is a link for florida http://www.rsimag.com/rsi/article/articleDetail.jsp?id=134481
Master
Sat Aug 13, 2005 3:39 pm
What did you do top remedy the step flashing outside of the siding?
Pride_roofing
Sat Aug 13, 2005 4:28 pm
I would not touch this roof without full tear-off and well he has had many repairs since. I wont deal with hack work at all. He had another repair and another since i took the photo.
Master
Sat Aug 13, 2005 4:42 pm
For the future, a slate ripper removes wood siding trim nails rather easily.
SYS
Sat Aug 13, 2005 6:06 pm
Pride_Roofing for some reason I can't see the pics you post links to the pages show a banner and etc but where the pic should be is blank i really want to see em what's the deal?
Pride_roofing
Sat Aug 13, 2005 11:40 pm
Tried to get ahold of but no avail. The link is not workin?
Master
Sun Aug 14, 2005 5:39 am
So, Pride, according to that article, my open air to the underside of the roofdeck with the insulation sprayed with polyurethane foam insulation onto the underside of a subdeck on the underside of the split roof rafters to spray to, and finished wouldnt be a bad idea. SPF has over R-50 in a full 2x8 cavity.

I say to SPF insulate the underside, and apply a finish. Vent the topside of that (between the roof deck and celing deck) with a ridge vent on top. In the domicile, the hot air would rise, creating a more comfortable interior with the hot air up and the cool air below and all in the same space. The roof would get its full life cycle (if mfg's are right) by having full 1oo% vented area.

It can be built, too.
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