roofryan

Wed Feb 23, 2005 5:03 pm

I would appreciate any suggestions concerning repairing a flat roof on a friend's warehouse. It is a metal deck with tar and gravel. The leak area has some split seams and minor buckles/bubbles. The overall condition of the roof is fairly decent. I torched down some singly-ply strips over the area in question and doped the tie-in. the roof was wet and i was unable to get a very good seal. Subsequent rains showed that the leak was still there but supposedly it had improved to just a trickle. I figure I'm in the right area but need to get a better seal. What do you suggest I do to tie it in watertight? I heard of a liquid emulsion that is supposed to re-juvinate tar and gravel. I'm not thrilled about scraping the area and causing more leaks and torching to dry doesn't seem to be happening. Is there any wet application products on the market that will do the trick? Should I scrape the gravel? Is emulsion the way to go? Any help out there in cyberland? Thanks

G-Tape

Sat Feb 26, 2005 6:26 am

What we usually do is sweep off any excess pea gravel in and around the area. then pour fibered roof coating in the area and sweep it into the gravel. It will seep into the cracks and plug up any leaks. It will also resaturate the tar just alittle. It will work for awhile, you may have to do it again in a couple of years.

rooferama

Mon Feb 28, 2005 5:59 pm

mule-hide makes an emulsion coating that comes in a 5 gallon bucket. We use it specifically for temporary repairs and for people who don't want to spend the money for several years. I can't remember the # on the can, but ABC handles Mule-hide. It comes in handy around AC units that cant be moved. We sweep back the gravel and blow it dry. Then just broom this stuff on. It flows out pretty good. You can also lay out a base sheet if you need to bridge some crazing.

Master

Tue Mar 22, 2005 4:08 pm

I am in he Chicago are and we do BUR. I can patch the roof permanently. Please feel free to call if you should need any help. Spudding is the key to success in tar and gravel repair, and you do not have to cause more leaks, if you do it right.

Roofscape

Sat Mar 26, 2005 11:17 am

The proper way to repair this is to ....
First - Remove the pea gravel from the project area.
Second - Regular soap and water (no chemicals) just clean it a bit.
Third - After its dry coat it with tar or basic roofing cement. One foot on all sides of the leak area.
Forth - Apply felt paper. Then another coat of tar.
Fith - Repeat but make area one foot bigger all the way around.
Sixth - Replace the pea gravel while its still wet.

Modified bitumen WONT stick to BUR. They have 2 different chemical compositions and would fail in no time at all. BUR is not a synthetic product like rubber of bitumen. The quick way out that would be faster is to just buy a 5 gallon bucket of roof cement then pea gravel over top. I dont recommend that either but it's still better.

Master

Sat Mar 26, 2005 2:40 pm

You have to spud (scrape) the tar and gravel surfacing around the patch area in order to expose the BUR plies so that you are bonding felt to felt for a permanent type of repair.

I would never recommend pouring out the roof cement as the main repair, but do use it as a component of the repair.

People who do not know BUR repair shlould not comment.

If you simply sweep back the gravel and pour the asphalt out and lay a reinforcing ply into it, youre still left with not bonding to a smooth surface, and trying to bond to a floodcoat that may or may not be bonded to the roof.

I repeat YOU HAVE TO SPUD THE PERIMETER OF THE REPAIR AREA WIDE ENOUGH TO FEATHER THE PLIES OF FELT AND FLOODCOAT. After a proper repair is completed, broadcast the gravel back into the floodcoat while it is HOT ("wet" would indicate the presence of water and water is a big NO NO to have mixed in with your asphalt repairs.)

Shane@RRSroofing

Sat Mar 26, 2005 5:19 pm

I agree with MasterB spudding is the key NO WATER. spud down to ply, roof has to be hot, tar applied in thin coat, fiberglass ply, then another thin coat of tar, then pea gravel. temp needs to be hot. I have found several instances where people applied tar or plastic cement to a wet roof and it acted as a sponge. 10 roofers 9 different answers but the one that is right is the one that don't leak!

premierecommercialroofing

Mon Jul 25, 2005 12:51 am

we are a roofing contractor out of indiana and we cover the chicagoland area. we do these type of roofs often and with the channels in the metal decking make it tough to do a repair. the water could be coming in some other area and then finding a channel and then to a low spot and into the building. Our system is on the Zenith building around 294 and many of the steve foley cadillac dealerships. any interest , call Jeff at 1-888-810-5222. the system is about 1/2 the cost and performs about twice as good.

Pride_roofing

Mon Jul 25, 2005 12:58 am

ok im not a flat roof specialist but hey this is not a selling bb. Master is IN also and I would recommend the job to him.

Master

Mon Jul 25, 2005 3:31 am

Actually, Im in IL next town northeast of Joliet. I would still recommend the job to me. LOL

Premier commercial roofing, what type of sytem are you selling? I am looking into some new systems as a matter of keeping up with the ever-changing technologies.

PCR is right about the metal deck, though. A power broom is great for moving large areas of pea gravel to find the deficiency.