Roofing Options
StangNut
Sat Jul 23, 2005 9:48 pm
Hi All,
I've got a 15 year old concrete tile roof that's been leaking for at least the past two seasons. First leaky season (that I noticed), I thought I fixed it by shifting some tiles around, but when we had the record downpour here in So Cal last winter, I found out the hard way that it wasn't fixed and how hard it was to get a contractor that time of year. Anyways, I'm looking at a couple of options and was curious what you all think:
1. Remove and replace existing tile and redo underlayment with leak barrier and two layer of "leatherback" underlayment. Install all new flashings. Permitted. Reuse existing plywood if good; replace any bad sheets.
2. New Monierlite tile with leak barrier, two layer leatherback underlayment, new flashings and vents. Permitted. Reuse existing plywood if good; replace any bad sheets.
3. Remove existing tile and install GAF Timberlite Ultra shingles, leak barrier, leatherback underlayment, rolled ridge ventilation, drip edge, flashings, w/ manufacturer's inspection/certification. 6 nails per shingle. Permitted. Reuse existing plywood if good; replace any bad sheets.
4. Fix the leak(s) and hope for the best (least preferred as I plan on keeping the house).
The roof is about 27 squares, two story house and is walkable.
Also, just curious what you all would charge for each of the above options. Thanks!
StangNut
I've got a 15 year old concrete tile roof that's been leaking for at least the past two seasons. First leaky season (that I noticed), I thought I fixed it by shifting some tiles around, but when we had the record downpour here in So Cal last winter, I found out the hard way that it wasn't fixed and how hard it was to get a contractor that time of year. Anyways, I'm looking at a couple of options and was curious what you all think:
1. Remove and replace existing tile and redo underlayment with leak barrier and two layer of "leatherback" underlayment. Install all new flashings. Permitted. Reuse existing plywood if good; replace any bad sheets.
2. New Monierlite tile with leak barrier, two layer leatherback underlayment, new flashings and vents. Permitted. Reuse existing plywood if good; replace any bad sheets.
3. Remove existing tile and install GAF Timberlite Ultra shingles, leak barrier, leatherback underlayment, rolled ridge ventilation, drip edge, flashings, w/ manufacturer's inspection/certification. 6 nails per shingle. Permitted. Reuse existing plywood if good; replace any bad sheets.
4. Fix the leak(s) and hope for the best (least preferred as I plan on keeping the house).
The roof is about 27 squares, two story house and is walkable.
Also, just curious what you all would charge for each of the above options. Thanks!
StangNut
Master
Sat Jul 23, 2005 10:02 pm
First thing you have to discover is why a 15 year old concrete roof is leaking.
QRFL
Sat Jul 23, 2005 10:08 pm
1rst of all :
why would you replace a 15 year old tile? why not lift redo flashings and underlayment and reset? we do a lot of lift + reset work down here.
save money!!
i would only replace tile with comp if your roof has excesive valleys skylights chimneys and a lot of overhanging trees, this might be the cheapest option of all do.
you should not consider online estimates they are not acurate there might be something the contractor might overlook and affect your decision, consider only on site estimates.
hope i can be of help,good luck and god bless
why would you replace a 15 year old tile? why not lift redo flashings and underlayment and reset? we do a lot of lift + reset work down here.
save money!!
i would only replace tile with comp if your roof has excesive valleys skylights chimneys and a lot of overhanging trees, this might be the cheapest option of all do.
you should not consider online estimates they are not acurate there might be something the contractor might overlook and affect your decision, consider only on site estimates.
hope i can be of help,good luck and god bless
StangNut
Sat Jul 23, 2005 10:35 pm
Thanks for the replies. One thing I do know is that the roofer who reroofed and installed the tile (was wood shake originally) did not mortar cap the ridges and the overlap of the tiles is only about 1-1.5 inches (2" overlap is standard?). Seem to be a hack job.
I have received a couple of site estimates and it seems the remove and replace existing tile option is only about 15% less than a new composite roof with warranty, GAF timberline ultra system (granted that it would be removing and replacing the entire roof). Not a whole lot of valleys and no overhanging trees at all. One chimney, no skylights. But the tile looks like crap; It's got some funky dark greenish algae on about half the tiles.
Anyways, I'm not too too concerned about cost; I didn't want to do a repair job and chase/worry about leaks every year. I just want a durable solution and to protect my domicle.
Thanks!
StangNut
I have received a couple of site estimates and it seems the remove and replace existing tile option is only about 15% less than a new composite roof with warranty, GAF timberline ultra system (granted that it would be removing and replacing the entire roof). Not a whole lot of valleys and no overhanging trees at all. One chimney, no skylights. But the tile looks like crap; It's got some funky dark greenish algae on about half the tiles.
Anyways, I'm not too too concerned about cost; I didn't want to do a repair job and chase/worry about leaks every year. I just want a durable solution and to protect my domicle.
Thanks!
StangNut
Pride_roofing
Sat Jul 23, 2005 11:18 pm
Well when i doubt tear it off and re do properly. It has been a bit of time since i seen someone say i dont care bout the price. Good luck. BTW the GAF ultra are a good choice. IF you follow my link i have a pic of a roof i did with them on it.
QRFL
Sat Jul 23, 2005 11:22 pm
most tiles should have a minimum of 3" headlap,no wonder your roof is leaking, your underlayment is probably completely destroyed, with the overexposed courses lift and reset should be out of the question, definetly replace it,make it look nice .
tile should be more expensive than comp, i dont understand how you got a 15% estimate lower than comp.
Maybe try posting some of the work specifications so we look at them.
tile should be more expensive than comp, i dont understand how you got a 15% estimate lower than comp.
Maybe try posting some of the work specifications so we look at them.
QRFL
Sat Jul 23, 2005 11:26 pm
ok sorry specs are on the top "my bad "
it all sounds like a profesional installation , but i still dont see why tile is cheaper than shingles could you doublecheck?
it all sounds like a profesional installation , but i still dont see why tile is cheaper than shingles could you doublecheck?
StangNut
Sun Jul 24, 2005 12:08 am
Pride_roofing: The GAF Ultra job in your photo album looks real nice. If I go with that, hope it turns out similar.
ORFL: the 15% differential is comparing the new composite vs. remove/replacing the existing tile (option #3 vs #1). They would use most of the existing tile and then use new ones to replace any bad tile (on the back side of the house). I also got a quote for a new tile roof job (option #2) and that was about 34% higher than the new composite roof. The unit cost quoted was:
Option #1: $425/square
Option #2: $655/square
Option #3: $487/square
Option #4: not sure but I figure a couple grand
As a side note, this was quoted by a Nationwide Home Improvement store chain and I realize that there is probably a pretty healthy markup, but the concept would be less hassles, reduced risk of getting a shady contractor, increased customer service, no fly by night outfit, solid warranty (craftsmanship).
I also got a couple of other quotes including what I feel was a low ball quote to do something similar to opt #1. Was about $300/square. Didn't feel right in my gut though, based on some of the things said to me during the site quote. Same contractor quoted me $425/square for new tile roof job, similar to opt #2.
What do you all think?
StangNut
ORFL: the 15% differential is comparing the new composite vs. remove/replacing the existing tile (option #3 vs #1). They would use most of the existing tile and then use new ones to replace any bad tile (on the back side of the house). I also got a quote for a new tile roof job (option #2) and that was about 34% higher than the new composite roof. The unit cost quoted was:
Option #1: $425/square
Option #2: $655/square
Option #3: $487/square
Option #4: not sure but I figure a couple grand
As a side note, this was quoted by a Nationwide Home Improvement store chain and I realize that there is probably a pretty healthy markup, but the concept would be less hassles, reduced risk of getting a shady contractor, increased customer service, no fly by night outfit, solid warranty (craftsmanship).
I also got a couple of other quotes including what I feel was a low ball quote to do something similar to opt #1. Was about $300/square. Didn't feel right in my gut though, based on some of the things said to me during the site quote. Same contractor quoted me $425/square for new tile roof job, similar to opt #2.
What do you all think?
StangNut
QRFL
Sun Jul 24, 2005 12:16 am
ok i see now , well you dont want to mix tiles so thats outta the question.
i dont see anything wrong at all with the GAF roof thats mainly what i sell.
if money is no problem replace the whole tile with new one or go with a 50+year warranty GAF roof,personally i like comp over tile.
i dont see anything wrong at all with the GAF roof thats mainly what i sell.
if money is no problem replace the whole tile with new one or go with a 50+year warranty GAF roof,personally i like comp over tile.
Master
Sun Jul 24, 2005 12:51 am
Two ply it and torch a cap sheet. LOL
QRFL
Sun Jul 24, 2005 1:16 am
lol, Master you reminded me of the day we hot mopped like 1/2 square of dimensionals on a flat roof!! owner didnt budge "customer is always right huh?"
donl
Sun Jul 24, 2005 3:53 am
You gotta remember, the tile is not necessarily waterproof. The felt or underlayment is what carries the water off the roof. The tile is a great UV protector for the underlayment. If you upgrade your underlayment you probably won't have any trouble keeping water out.
